Wednesday, September 21, 2016

That's N'Awlins, Y'all

We spent four days in New Orleans over Labor Day weekend and are contemplating heading to the Dress Barn for a new wardrobe.  Do they carry men's clothes in plus sizes?  I think New Orleans is a lot like Paris--it is virtually impossible to have a bad meal there, unless you make really poor choices, like dining anywhere on Bourbon Street near Larry Flint's Barely Legal Club.

BP Oysters on the Half Shell
We love Desire Oyster Bar, which does a fine job of pretending not to be a restaurant at the Royal Sonesta Hotel.  I have to admit I've become quite the oyster snob in the past few years, and really prefer the briny bivalves from the cold ocean waters of New England, but I still enjoy Gulf oysters in New Orleans, though I sniff them like a picky Jack Russell Terrier for any lingering scent of the British Petroleum oil spill a few years back.  Happily, our oysters at Desire were gasoline-free, and we washed our lunch down with spicy bloody marys despite the fact that I am not a good day drinker unless a nap is forthcoming, which on this day it was.

Just Horsing Around the Clover Grill
I am a little embarrassed to report we ate at the infamous Clover Grill twice.  In a city teeming with excellent restaurants, why this 24 hour hole in the wall's siren call is irresistible to me is beyond consideration.  After indulging in some spirited high jinks for several hours, however, we found ourselves chowing down on a breakfasty chicken fried steak and eggs, hold the coffee. People watching in this place is one of the best shows in town, especially at 1 or 2 am.  Modesty prevents me from going into detail.

We ate another place at Dumaine and Dauphine, an intersection I've walked through at least 1,000 times.  I noticed a restaurant on the corner with a big lighted sign called EAT and said oh that must be new, let's try that!  The friendly host ushered us in and we got a choice window table.  I asked our lumber-sexual server when the place had opened and he said nine years ago. My observational skills are prodigious.

Order Up
We had breakfast in a popular diner one morning.  Camellia Grill is unique in that there are two wraparound counters and the servers stand in the middle of them, calling out orders to the short order cooks.  We had awesome line karma that day--usually you have to wait along the wall inside until the owner, busy working the room, motions you over to an available table when it's your turn.  This time, we walked in and were seated immediately and we were like wow!  No kidding, one minute later about thirty people came in and lined up.

We Ate It All
Our last night we returned to one of my favorite places in New Orleans, Domenica.  The chef there one the James Beard award last year and he so deserved it.  The pastas are fantastic, and the salads are great, but the showstopper is their charcuterie platter.  Generous portions of cured meats, artisinal cheeses, and eight different condiments like pickled watermelon rind and candied pecans.  What sets it truly apart is the accompanying basket of savory, warm beignets. I cased the joint to  make sure no one was looking, then quickly made a little soppressata and cheese sandwich out of one. Pure D Southern Decadence.